Ralph Lauren pieces from Roseberys' Watches & Luxury Items sale (Wednesday 18 June)
The Man, the Myth, the Brand
Ralph Lauren isn’t just a designer - he’s a cultural architect. Born in the Bronx, New York City in 1939, Lauren redefined American fashion by blending aspirational style with deep-rooted nostalgia. From the Ivy League halls of Princeton to the wide-open frontiers of the American West, Ralph Lauren created not just clothing but a lifestyle, one that millions have aspired to and collected.
This collector’s guide is for those who see beyond the Polo Pony, for the enthusiasts who appreciate a rare vintage jacket as deeply as a perfectly tailored Purple Label coat. Whether you’re hunting for archival rarities or trying to understand the prestige behind the label, this guide will help you navigate the world of Ralph Lauren collecting.
The Ralph Lauren Ecosystem: More Than Just Polo
One of Ralph Lauren’s greatest strengths lies in the diversity of his sub-labels. Each line caters to a different audience, lifestyle, and price point, yet all reflect the overarching Ralph Lauren aesthetic: timeless, aspirational, and American. This tiered structure is essential to the brand’s identity, allowing it to exist simultaneously in luxury boutiques, department stores, and outlet malls without losing its core brand identity.
Lot 853: Ralph Lauren. A two-piece leisure womenswear, to include a Ralph Lauren grey cropped bomber and wide-leg trouserss
Estimate: £150-£200
Polo Ralph Lauren, the most iconic, blends preppy Americana with sporty flair and remains a favourite among both casual fans and vintage collectors. Purple Label, launched in 1994, represents the brand’s highest expression of luxury, known for Italian tailoring, premium materials, and timeless design. RRL (Double RL) channels rugged workwear and Western aesthetics, with a cult following that values its authenticity and craftsmanship. For performance and technical gear, RLX offers a modern, sport-driven look. Meanwhile, Lauren Ralph Lauren and the now-defunct Chaps and Denim & Supply lines cater to more accessible markets, with select vintage pieces gaining niche interest among collectors.
Purple Label – Ralph Lauren’s Crown Jewel
Introduced in 1994, Purple Label is the most refined expression of Ralph Lauren’s vision. It represents his lifelong love for Savile Row tailoring, Italian craftsmanship, and understated elegance. Produced primarily in Italy, the line is defined by its use of the finest fabrics including, cashmere, vicuña, silk, and linen. With a commitment to hand-finished tailoring, full-canvas construction, and understated elegance. Signature pieces include sleek, timeless suiting, ultra-soft cashmere knitwear from rare mills, limited-run outerwear in shearling or exotic leathers, and accessories crafted by elite European artisans.
Lot 847: Ralph Lauren Purple Label. A brand new navy and gold striped two piece suit set
With small production runs and seasonal exclusives, many Purple Label garments—particularly early 2000s tailored pieces and runway items—have become increasingly rare and highly sought after by discerning collectors. Their enduring value lies not only in status, but in the uncompromising quality that defines true luxury.
Authenticating Ralph Lauren Purple Label requires close attention from the label, stitching, hardware and serial number for later pieces. The label itself is a primary indicator: it should feature “Ralph Lauren” in a clean white serif font on a rich saturated purple background. Older tags may be made of satin-like fabric and, in rare cases, include gold embroidery, both indicating the signs of vintage authenticity. Tag stitching should be even, clean, and firmly secured. Hardware and finishing also offer clues: zippers are often branded Riri or Lampo, buttons are typically horn or engraved metal, and all stitching should be tight, consistent, and professionally executed. From the 2000s onward, Ralph Lauren Purple Label started to include internal tags with serial numbers or production codes that can be traced to specific seasons or styles. Importantly, nearly all authentic Purple Label garments are made in Italy, occasionally in the UK or US, but never in mass-market manufacturing regions. These consistent, high-caliber details are key to distinguishing genuine pieces from counterfeits.
Icons, Influence, and the Future of Ralph Lauren Collecting
Ralph Lauren holds a singular position in pop culture, an intersection of high fashion, streetwear, and Americana that few brands have navigated so seamlessly. In the late 1980s and early ’90s, the Lo-Lifes, a Brooklyn-based crew, elevated Polo Ralph Lauren to streetwear icon status by coveting bold, logo-heavy pieces like the Snow Beach jacket and P-Wing collections. This fusion of aspirational prep and street credibility predated the now-common blending of luxury and street style.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label has solidified its status as a symbol of refined luxury and timeless style, frequently gracing the wardrobes of influential British figures. Harry Styles has been photographed wearing a Ralph Lauren Purple Label cashmere rollneck sweater, showcasing the brand's commitment to quality and classic design. Sienna Miller has been seen at Wimbledon wearing Ralph Lauren attire, including a Polo Ralph Lauren suit and accessories from the brand, highlighting her affinity for Ralph Lauren's sophisticated offerings. These instances underscore how Ralph Lauren Purple Label continues to resonate with contemporary British style icons, reinforcing its position in the cultural zeitgeist.
Lot 846: Ralph Lauren. A set of champagne goldset, to include a silk blouse with swallowed-tailed collar
Estimate: £80 - £120
As fashion shifts toward sustainability and heritage, the future of Ralph Lauren collecting lies in a deeper appreciation of archival craftsmanship and rarity. Reissues of iconic pieces, like Stadium and Snow Beach, have reignited interest in originals, while sub-labels like RRL are gaining cult status among denim and vintage aficionados. With the rise of digital platforms and authentication technologies, collectors are now navigating a more competitive and transparent market.
Additionally, hidden gems like early 2000s Purple Label sportswear, rare Japan-only releases, and sought-after high-profile collaborations are emerging as valuable investments. These pieces not only reflect the brand’s ongoing cultural relevance but also point to a dynamic and promising future for collectors, where both heritage and innovation will continue to shape Ralph Lauren’s legacy.
Luxury fashion to consign? Contact specialist Sally He for a valuation.