A rare Art Deco brooch, originally discovered loose in a box of odds and ends and made famous by its appearance on Antiques Roadshow, sold for £4,854 at Roseberys London on June 17, making double its original estimate of £2,000 from the Antiques Roadshow specialist.

Lot 452: Chaumet. An Art Deco, white gold, rock crystal, diamond and ruby lapel clip brooch
Price Realised: £4,854

First brought to public attention in a 1990 episode of Antiques Roadshow, the brooch was described by its former owner as having been found in “a rather untidy box of bits and bobs from [her] aunty.” Renowned jewellery expert John Benjamin quickly identified it as a 1930s piece by the prestigious French maison Chaumet, valuing it at the time around £2,000.

Over three decades later, the brooch returned to the spotlight with a revised estimate of £3,000–£5,000, reflecting both the increasing rarity of signed Art Deco pieces and renewed collector interest in historically significant jewels. It sold within expectations to a bidder in the room.

Catrin Jones, Head of Jewellery at Roseberys, commented: "With its prestigious maker, distinctive design that hints at a lost pair, and unexpected moment of TV fame, this brooch stood out as a particularly exciting lot. The result confirms the enduring appetite for quality, signed jewels with compelling histories."

Set in 18K white gold (previously thought to be platinum), the brooch features rock crystal, diamonds, and Burmese rubies, a classic combination in 1930s design. Roseberys’ specialists believe it may once have belonged to a pair of lapel clips. A nearly identical example appeared at Christie’s in November 2022, suggesting both may have once formed a matching set mounted to a shared frame.

Founded in 1780 as Maison Nitot, Chaumet rose to prominence as the official jeweller to Napoleon Bonaparte, with its founder Marie-Étienne Nitot credited with popularising the tiara after crafting a diamond diadem for Empress Joséphine.

Lot 484: An Edwardian sapphire and diamond bow brooch
Price Realised: £21,648

An Edwardian sapphire brooch estimated at £4,000 - £6,000 realised a price of £21,648, selling to a buyer in Hong Kong. The delicate old cut diamond-set brooch with a claw-set sapphire in the centre is a quintessential example of Edwardian fashion. Edward VII had a prodigious appetite for luxury and a newly-minted industrial bourgeoisie, ascendant during ‘La Belle Epoque’, strove to emulate his flagrant displays of wealth. Expensive and intricate hand-craft jewellery, became de rigueur for the European aristocracy and leisure classes, with everyone competing to look more splendid than everybody else in high society. Traditional motifs from the 18th century such as ribbons and lace became popular and Edwardian ladies particularly favoured delicate and intricate pieces like the present example.

Lot 472: De Vroomen. A large 18ct gold star sapphire necklace, comprised of graduated gold panels, with a...
Price Realised: £13,120


A further highlight from the sale was a gold star sapphire necklace by Leo de Vroomen, which realised a price of £13,120, well over its estimate of £3,000-£5,000. It was sold to a UK buyer, following competitive bidding on the phones, online and in the room. The Dutch master goldsmith worked alongside his wife Ginnie for over 50 years. De Vroomen passed away earlier this year.