Leading Roseberys’ upcoming Watches & Luxury Items sale is a rare early example of the IWC Ingenieur, produced circa 1955 and offered at an estimate of £3,000–£4,000. This notable model features the calibre 852—one of the brand’s first automatic movements—housed in an anti-magnetic soft-iron inner case. The dial bears the original “Arrow Logo,” a Swiss thunderbolt symbol denoting protection from electrical interference, marking it as the first antimagnetic wristwatch from Schaffhausen produced for civilian use.
Lot 670: International Watch Co. An automatic calendar wristwatch, Ingenieur, Reference 666A
Estimate: £3,000 - £4,000
This pioneering tool watch was specifically designed for professionals working in high-magnetic environments such as engineers, technicians, physicists, chemists, and doctors.
The Ingenieur debuted during a period of rapid post-war technological advancement. Under the leadership of Albert Pellaton, IWC developed its first automatic movement in 1950, patenting a unique bidirectional winding system using pawls and a cam for efficient energy transfer. The result was the calibre 85, followed by the improved calibre 852—both celebrated for their durability and reliability.
The Ingenieur marked a pivotal shift from military timepieces to civilian tool watches, offering practical features to a new professional audience. Its development was directly informed by IWC’s earlier work on the Mark 11 pilot’s watch for the British RAF, applying similar anti-magnetic principles to a wristwatch for everyday use. With its soft-iron case, robust construction, and Pellaton automatic movement, the 1955 Ingenieur set a new benchmark for precision instruments worn on the wrist—ushering in the era of professional-grade timepieces.
Lot 517: Cartier. A rare Art Deco, black onyx and ivory 'Domino' model purse watch, Circa 1930
Estimate: £4,000 - £6,000
Also featured in the sale is a rare Art Deco Cartier ‘Domino’ purse watch from circa 1930, estimated at £4,000–£6,000. It captures the elegance and playfulness of the Jazz Age, featuring a mechanical movement, black onyx and ivory case, rock crystal inlay, and hand-painted dots.
Lot 734: Cartier. A large size 18ct rose gold and diamond set quartz bracelet watch La Doña
From Cartier again, a large-size 18ct rose gold La Doña bracelet watch is expected to attract strong interest. Created in 2006 as a tribute to Mexican film icon María Félix, a longtime muse of the house, the La Doña is inspired by the crocodile necklace Cartier famously made for her. Its asymmetrical dial and curved bracelet links reflect the form and movement of her pet crocodiles. The watch is offered with an estimate of £8,000–£12,000.
Lot 733: Bulgari. A stainless steel, 18ct gold and diamond set sprung bracelet watch, Serpenti
Estimate: £8,000 - £12,000
A Bulgari Serpenti watch, estimated at £8,000–£12,000, will also be featured. Its steel and gold sprung spiral bracelet is made using the Tubogas technique, a hallmark of the Roman house since the 1940s. The method, inspired by postwar industrial gas pipes, creates flexible, corrugated bands that wrap sinuously around the wrist.
Lot 862: Valentino. A vintage Valentino boutique panther pattern beaded two piece set, SS87
Estimate: £200 - £400
The Luxury Items section introduces high fashion as a collectible category for the first time at Roseberys, led by a vintage Valentino boutique panther-pattern beaded two-piece set from the Spring/Summer 1987 collection. This ensemble is a quintessential expression of Valentino’s approach to 1980s power dressing - balancing the decade’s bold structural forms with grace, fluidity, and artisanal detail.
A strong selection of Hermès, including a distinctive Ghillies Kelly in the framboise colourway, completes the sale.
"This auction brings together an exceptional cross-section of horological design and innovation, from landmark tool watches like the IWC Ingenieur to exquisite vintage Cartier. It's a celebration of craftsmanship in all its forms," said Kate Lacey, Senior Watches Consultant at Roseberys.
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