A rare Art Deco brooch, originally discovered loose in a box of odds and ends, is set to go under the hammer at Roseberys in the June 17 Jewellery auction with a high estimate of £5,000, nearly double its original valuation.

Lot 452: Chaumet. An Art Deco, white gold, rock crystal, diamond and ruby lapel clip brooch 
Estimate: £3,000 - £5,000

The brooch first came to public attention in a 1990 episode of Antiques Roadshow, where a guest recounted finding it in “a rather untidy box of bits and bobs from [her] aunty,” aged 15. Jewellery expert John Benjamin quickly identified it as a piece by renowned French jeweller Chaumet, dating to the 1930s. At the time, he estimated its value at around £2,000.

Now, the brooch returns to the spotlight with a revised estimate of £3,000–£5,000, reflecting the increasing rarity and growing demand  for Art Deco pieces. 

In the original broadcast, Benjamin described the brooch as featuring rock crystal, diamonds, and Burmese rubies set in platinum. However, recent analysis by Roseberys indicates the setting is actually 18K white gold, evidenced by its hallmark and a slight yellowish tone under light, typical of early white gold alloys.

Roseberys specialists also believe the brooch may once have been part of a pair. Unlike typical Art Deco double clips, it features a single clip fitting. A nearly identical example, also a single clip, was offered for sale  at Christie’s in November 2022, suggesting the two may have originally formed a matching set with a shared frame.

Founded in 1780 as Maison Nitot, Chaumet gained prestige as a jeweller to Napoleon’s court. Marie-Étienne Nitot, the founder, is widely credited with popularising the tiara after creating a diamond-set piece for Empress Joséphine.

“With its prestigious maker, distinctive design that hints at a lost pair, and unexpected moment of TV fame, this brooch stands out as a particularly exciting lot,” said Catrin Jones, Head of Jewellery at Roseberys. “There is an enduring appetite for quality, signed jewels with compelling histories and we expect it to attract considerable interest.”

Lot 472: De Vroomen. A large 18ct gold star sapphire necklace, comprised of graduated gold panels 
Estimate: £3,000 - £5,000

Additional Highlights from the sale include a gold star sapphire necklace by Leo de Vroomen, featuring graduated sculptural panels. The Dutch master goldsmith worked alongside his wife Ginnie for over 50 years. De Vroomen passed away earlier this year. 

Lot 459: A Victorian gold hinged locket and collar, the locket pendant with applied crossed laurel branches
Estimate: £1,200 - £1,800

A Victorian gold hinged locket and collar, discovered in a hidden compartment during a house clearance, carries an estimate of £1,200–£1,800. Embossed with laurel branches, a favoured motif in the late 19th century, it was likely made around 1890. Pieces like this are increasingly rare, as antique gold is often scrapped.