Roseberys’ Watches & Luxury Items auction on Thursday 20 November features an exemplary selection of watches spanning the breadth of horological history, from 18th century pocket watches, to postwar technical innovations to elegant contemporary examples.
Lot 537: Jaeger-LeCoultre. A stainless steel manual wind pilot's wristwatch, Mark XI
Among the most evocative of these is a Jaeger-LeCoultre Mark XI pilot’s wristwatch, issued in 1948 to Royal Air Force navigators. Its story begins in the immediate aftermath of the Second World War, when the British Ministry of Defence sought to replace the so-called “Dirty Dozen” field watches that had served the Army in wartime. While those twelve Swiss manufacturers had delivered reliable general service models, the newly established standards for aircrew demanded a higher order of precision and durability.
The resulting specification, 6B/346, effectively set the blueprint for all subsequent pilot’s watches. It required a high-grade Swiss movement capable of chronometer accuracy, a soft-iron inner case to protect against magnetic interference, a water-resistant Staybrite steel case and a matte black dial with luminous Arabic numerals for legibility in low light.
Only two manufacturers met these exacting criteria; IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre. From 1948 onward both supplied watches that would become the definitive instruments of RAF navigation crews through the 1950s and early 1960s. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Mark XI was powered by the finely adjusted calibre 488/SBr, a movement tested to within seconds per day and individually certified by the Ministry before issue.
Each watch bore the Broad Arrow marking of government property and the RAF reference number on the caseback, signifying its official role in service. Over time, many examples were modified as the military switched from radium to tritium-based luminous paint, leading to the “T” in a circle still visible on later dials. Surviving pieces such as this remain a tangible record of Britain’s postwar military infrastructure. With an estimate of £1,500–£2,000, this 1948 example stands as both a rare collectible and an eloquent articulation of aviation history.
Lot 665: IWC. A platinum automatic perpetual calendar split seconds wristwatch with box and papers
A further sale highlight is an IWC Da Vinci Rattrapante IW3751 in platinum, one of the most mechanically complex wristwatches ever produced. The model combines a perpetual calendar accurate until the year 2199 with a split-seconds chronograph, allowing two separate events to be timed simultaneously. The watch’s 43-jewel automatic calibre 7906 movement features displays for day, date, month, year and moon phase, all housed within a 39mm platinum case of striking proportion and weight. This example also carries distinguished provenance as property of a Royal Family.
Also featured is an exquisite gold triple-case verge pocket watch by John Markham, London, hallmarked 1770. The outer repoussé case is richly chased in high relief with a scene of David playing the harp to Saul, exemplifying the artistry of 18th-century English watchmaking.
The luxury items section also features a group of clothes from the private collection of Philippa Saphir, reflecting the designer’s instinctive grasp of material and form. Saphir has previously exhibited at the V&A and the Royal College of Art.
Lot 818: Hermès. Mini Evelyn, of Bleu Glacier clemence leather, with palladium hardware
Alongside these, luxury highlights include a private collection of Hermès pieces, together with select pieces by Chanel, Philip Treacy and Yves Saint Laurent.
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