May 12th Costumes & Textiles Auction:
Rosebery’s Auctioneers offered at auction a substantial private owner collection of classic Chanel fashion…
To include a plethora of late 20th century classic suit jackets and a number of timeless chain handled quilted leather handbags.
Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel was born in 1883 and died in 1971. Starting as a milliner in the early 1920’s and progressing into clothing Chanel created simple designs in contrast to the ostentatious nature of the Belle Epoque. She eradicated the tight-fitting corsets, long dress lines and petticoats by introducing a more androgenous suit with ‘boxy’ lines and shorter hem lines that epitomised the fashion vogue of the 1920’s and remains influential to date.
The House of Chanel was founded by Chanel where she held the title of Chief Designer from its formation in 1910 to her death over sixty years later. Under her reign she had numerous design successes that contributed to shaping the fashion trends throughout the years. The next textile auction at Rosebery’s is fortunate to present a single owner collection that offers many of these timeless classics. In 1925 Chanel introduced her signature cardigan jacket of which our May auction sees an excellent example in black and white, illustrating how the trend has transcended the eras and remains relevant to designs of the late twentieth century. Similarly, the distinct Chanel suit that provided countless women with a graceful and elegant ‘working costume’ is offered for auction with over twenty five pristine jackets produced in the 1980’s and 1990’s.
In addition to clothing Chanel was famed for accessories. In February 1955 to compliment the ongoing popularity of the classic suit Chanel introduced the quilted bag with the Chanel double locking CC logo and leather and gold link chain shoulder strap. This immediately became an establishment favourite of which Chanel was at this time firmly a part of. This position appears ironic and certainly in contrast to her attitude towards the establishment when she began designing in the 1910’s when she rebelled and hated the image and constrictions placed on women by fashion through the Edwardian age. At this time her designs were seen as a response to her anti-establishmentarian attitude as opposed to the quilted bag that was created firmly admist the entrapments of the institution. Included in the auction is a number of classic flap bags c.1980’s and an earlier example, a c.1960’s small navy quilted shoulder bag. The majority of the bags have their carte d’authenticite ensuring their authenticity in a time of mass produced counterfeits created in the middle east.
Rosebery’s have two costume & textiles auctions this year on the 12th of May and the 3rd & 4th of November. The department is now accepting consignments for the November 2009 auction and are happy to offer a complimentary valuation with the view to auction,
For further information or advice regarding buying or selling fashion and textiles at Rosebery's please contact Vicki on vickiwonfor@roseberys.co.uk or 020 8761 2522.
We are open for valuations Monday to Friday 9.30am to 5.00pm and can be reached on 020 8761 2522 for further information.
Rosebery's, 74 - 76 Knights Hill, West Norwood, London, SE27 OJD, United Kingdom.
Telephone: +44 (0) 20 8761 2522 Facsimile: +44 (0) 20 8761 2524 Email: auctions@roseberys.co.uk
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Highlights from our 12th of May 2009 Costumes & Textiles Auction:
Lot 955:
Chanel black quilted leather flap bag with CC lock, double silver chain & leather flap, zip on inner top flap, second flap covering internal compartment, carte d'authenticite number 1490982, with Chanel black dust bag.
Sold for: £980
Lot 951:
Two Hermes coats; a black cashmere coat with two large front pockets, hidden button fastening, together with a short sleeved alpaca collarless jacket , (2).
Sold for: £750
Lot 948:
Three Chanel jackets; a cream jacket with navy blue & red edging, four front pockets, cream, red, pearl & diamonte beaded buttons on front, pockets & cuffs, chain weighted hem, together with a black & white jacket with frayed ribbon detail throughout, black & silver Chanel logo buttons on front & cuffs, chain weighted hem, and a black collarless jacket with black sequin & ribbon detail throughout, two front pockets, single top button fastening decorated with black jewels, chain weighted hem, (3).
Sold for: £750
Lot 999:
An 'Oshkosh Trunk Company', fitted travelling trunk; brown exterior with red lettering 'E.L.R' to end, stud mount edging, brass fastenings, interior left side with hinged top & hanging space with original hangers, right side fitted with four drawers, 105x58x57cm.
Sold for: £320
Lot 959:
Two Hermes cashmere & silk scarves; 'Libres Comme L'Air' designed by F. Faire together with 'Neige d'Antan' designed by C. Lantham, boxed, 65% cashmere, 35% silk, 140x140cm, (2).
Sold for: £320
Lot 935:
Two Christian Dior Couture evening gowns; a black & white patterned sculptured full length sleeveless evening gown with a kick tail skirt, large V cut out back leading to an oversized bow at base of back & large pocket detail at front, labelled, together with a black & white off the shoulder three-quarter length sleeve polka dot evening gown with floral appliqued edging, internal corset bodice & netted under skirt, labelled, and a black & white sequinned stripe scarf decoration, (3).
Sold for: £300